Woodshop Life Podcast

• Temp Vs. Humidity?, Planed or Sanded Surface?, Removing Rust and MORE!!!

  This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Just a question to ponder about the future of our favorite material. As old buildings get torn down there seems to a great supply of reclaimed lumber for our current generation. But as we know this is a finite resource. So with that said will the next generation be turning to our generation’s slab furniture for their reclaimed lumber? Doug Hey! Sorry if this has already been addressed in a previous episode. I’m in upstate NY,  and I have a full wood shop detached from my house. The woodshop is insulated, but the temperature changes outside are pretty much the max, 100 degrees in the summer, and it will live at 20 degrees in the winter. In the winter, should I keep materials I’m working on in my house, bring them out to the shop when I’m cutting, and then bring them back in? It seems excessive, but it's really huge temperature changes. I’m mostly dealing with walnut. Is the temperature the bigger issue, or is it really humidity? I could maybe install a heat pump, just yah know it's a lot of energy. If I went that route, do you have a recommendation for a temp I should keep materials at? Thanks again for making such a great show -Mohamed Guys Questions: Hello and thank you for the wonderful podcast. I was hoping for some insights on builds for high moisture environments.  My fiancé and I  just moved into our first house and need to update the bathroom vanity.  Rather than spend hundreds of dollars on a a shoddy big-box-store model, I would like to take a crack at building one myself. I have enough experience with woodworking and building cabinets that I feel confident with the actual construction, but am concerned about the high moisture environment.  I plan on making a carcass out of prefinished plywood with face frames and drawer fronts out of a yet-to-be-determined species (likely red oak).  What advice and considerations do you all have for these high moisture environments? Do I need to use special finishes or some sort of sealant for the hardwood components? Do I need to worry about sealing or finishing the edges of the plywood even though the faces are prefinished? Do I need any special considerations for moisture or even mold build up between the face frame and plywood carcass? Any and all advice on this is greatly appreciated Thanks as always! Andrew Hey Guys, I love your show. Hearing 3 sets of opinions with different levels of experience really helps me learn. I've heard so many different approaches to sanding that I'm coming to the experts for guidance. To what grit do you sand to for Oak, Walnut, Maple, and cherry. Do you think a planned or card scraped surface is better than a sanded surface? Does it take the finish just as well? Thanks for all you do! Ezra Huys Questions: Another question... I recently had a small tornado that took the roof off of my shop. As a result, all of my tools got wet and the power tools - table saw, jointer, band saw, drill press etc - all got wet and rusted. They've been in storage since March of this year. I have new shop being built and hope to have it done by the end of this month. What suggestions do y'all have in terms of getting the rust off of the tools and checking for any other possible water damage? Thanks. Ron Brewer I’m making a walnut bench that I want to route headboard sides (legs) on and I’m not sure how to go about it. I’m not sure if a straight edge/track with a router and at pointed round over bit would be the best route or if I should do it on the router table. I plan on using a 3/8” or 1/2” radius point cutting round over bit for the beading. The end two end panels are 16”x18” and 1.5” thick. I have a festool 1400 router and an Incra router table as possible options. Also, once I get these panels made what’s the best way to sand the beads since they come down to a tight point in the middle. Sanding seems like it would be a huge pain and not sure if the router bit would leave a good enough finish to apply finish without prep work. Thanks, Chayse

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• Making XMas Gifts, Dye in Shellac?, Mortising Machine? and MORE!!!

  This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Hey all, great podcast, thank you for doing what you do. What are some favorite Christmas gifts to make with scrap wood? Specific context for me:  been woodworking for a while, hobbyist, been giving gifts to people for years and now I've lost track of who has gotten what.  Just trying to get some ideas for this year.  Time is easier to give to a project than money.  I also like the lathe for scrap projects.  Have found a good glue up can make a good looking bowl. Follow up/more specific questions: What are some favorite scrap wood projects that are not kits from Rockler (or similar companies)? Other than a bowl, what are some other gifts that can come off the lathe? What are some non kitchen items to make from scrap wood?  (I believe I've given too many cutting boards, charcuterie boards, cooking utensils over the years).  Jim Hello friends,  I haven't submitted a question in a hot minute, as the kids say, but I finally have a good one for you and it's regarding something I'm truly stumped about. After hitting you guys with question after question about, "How do I do _______ without a jointer or planer?" I finally got myself a thickness planer. It's louder than all hell, and it's nothing fancy, but I'm glad I have it.  There's only one issue that I'm having with it, and I can't figure out what's causing it. When I'm getting ready to Mill down some stock, I first set the height of the planer blades so they aren't taking off any material at the start. The depth of cut indicator is at "0". I'll even send the board through with the blades at this height sometimes just to make sure the gauge is accurate. I then lower the blades by 1/64", aka a quarter turn of the handle. I send the piece of stock through, it takes off some material, whatever. So far, so good. Here's what's throwing me off: after I've fed that board through the planer, I can feed that same board right back through, with the blades still set at the same height, and the planer will take off about the same amount of material, from the sound of it. This doesn't only happen on a second pass, either. I can feed the same board through the planer six, seven, or eight times, without adjusting the cutting depth, and the planer continues to remove material at each pass. Unless I'm missing something about how planers work, I would think that the material should have been planed down to thickness on the first pass. I can't figure out why it continues to remove material after multiple passes when I haven't changed the settings. This happens to me every time I use my planer. Not sure if this is relevant but I have a Ridgid #R4331 planer. I also attached a link to a very loud video demonstrating this phenomenon. Thank you in advance for your help and expertise, and thank you for continuing to take the time to put out this phenomenal woodworking podcast. I hope your projects are doing well, and I hope you're doing even better. Sincerely,  Zachary T Owens Guys Questions: Hello, Thank you for the great podcast and for answering my questions. I have a question on using Transtint dye. I heard Guy and Huy mention they use it. Not sure about Brian. Anyway, I screwed up 2 projects when trying to apply it. In both cases I mixed it into Zinser Sealcoat shellac. Firs time applied with foam brush on elm. The second time wiped on on maple plywood. In both cases, the color was very inconsistent. I ended up throwing away the plywood and sanding the elm back to bare wood.  My question is, is it ok to add Transtint dye to shellac? If so, what could be my problem? More importantly, can you tell me the process you follow to apply Transtint dye? The dye I was using is Transtint Dark Walnut. Max I have owned my Sawstop cabinet saw for nearly a year now and I have consistently been impressed with the quality of the machine. One thing that has bugged me since I got the saw is the occasional binding I get when I do a rip cut especially. I have meticulously aligned the fence with the blade/miter slots and with a dial indicator jig to be parallel. I thought it may be internal stresses in the wood but I have the same issue ripping plywood or MDF. I finally figured out the problem. I am using Freud thin kerf blades which have a kerf of 0.091" inches according to the manufacturer. My riving knife is a few thousands thicker than this . Sawstop offers a thin riving knife but I have seen mixed opinions and wanted to get your guys' take on it since I know at least one or two of you have the Sawstop cabinet saw. Have you ever had this problem? Thanks! Adam Huys Questions: Dear Woodshop Life Podcast Senseis, Thank you again for your awesome podcast.  New listener.  Finally finished all podcasts and now going back and listening to them all again. This is my second question submitted in the past few months. Just as I prefaced in my last question/submission, I am in the process of setting up my workshop in a one car space of a three car garage. One of the first things I built in my current workshop was a miter saw station using 2x4’s and plywood.  I’m glad I used relatively inexpensive materials, because after only a few months I realized that I allocated too much space to an immobile monolith in my small workshop. I plan to build a mobile miter saw station with collapsable wings to replace my current miter saw station.  The wings when extended will support longer material and when folded will create a smaller footprint. I recently watched Guy’s video entitled “Build This Small Sturdy Workbench” on his YouTube channel.  The base of the workbench gave me an idea for the base for my miter saw.  I’ll add retractable casters to make it mobile. I want to buy a hollow chisel mortiser for this and future projects.  Based on my budget of $600, I think that limits me to a benchtop model.  Are there any benchtop hollow chisel mortisers in my price range that you might suggest? Thank you again for the great podcast and thank you in advance for your advice. Best, Darryl Noda (Wildfield Workshop) I discovered your podcast earlier this year and have now gone back and listened to the entire back catalog while making sawdust in the shop. I appreciate all the knowledge you are sharing with the entire woodworking community. A question I have recently started thinking about is what would happen with my workshop if something happened to me. I have invested a considerable amount of money in tools from a Sawstop, Laguna Pflux dust collector and Harvey router table, to planes, chisels, and way too many Woodpecker tools. But neither of my kids nor other family members are interested in woodworking, and they wouldn't know what to do with a workshop full of tools. Have you made plans for how to sell or donate your tools? I have created a Will and Trust for my house and financial assets, but I think having a solid plan for the Workshop would be very helpful for my family, but I don't know where to start. Any ideas for community groups that could be donated to, or how the tools could be sold to the right audience? I happen to live in the Indianapolis area as well, so any specific suggestions would be welcome, as well as general ideas.Kevin

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• OOOPS!

  Due to some tech difficulties, we won't be uploading an episode this week. See you next time!

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• Blade Height, Veneer Thickness, Open Grain Lumber and MORE!!!

  This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Love the podcast fellas! I have a simple question: When I use my table saw, I usually just check if the blade is "high enough" i.e. any height higher than the wood piece. Is there an ideal blade height for a given wood thickness? Thanks! Matt What is the most difficult project you've ever done? Brian Guys Questions: I’m wondering how thick is too thick to veneer onto a plywood box. I’ll be making a treasure chest for my daughter’s wedding (for cards and such) and lining it in leather. I have some wood I’d like to use for the outside as “veneer”, but it is a 3/8” thick. The species is morado, and they were a “special buy” thing at a Woodcraft I got a while ago.  Basically, I have them and I’d like to use them if possible rather than buying something else. My bandsaw isn’t always the most reliable, so while I would feel comfortable splitting them and then planing them flat again, that might be as thin as I’m able to do. I’m guessing 1/8” thick once all the processing is done. Is that too thick to use as veneer? Is there a glue that’s better for a thicker veneer than a thin one? Thanks, Peter I recently bought a small bandsaw mill (Woodmizer LX30) and am becoming an amateur sawyer, exclusively to supply lumber for my own projects.  2 questions, here's the first: 1. In what use cases, if any, would you use air-dried lumber for your projects, assuming it is stickered properly, outside, with a rain cover on the top, for a year per inch of thickness?  I was told by a friend who operates a kiln that air-drying in southern Indiana will never get the moisture content much below 13-15%, it will dry unevenly throughout the board, and it won't kill powder post beetles and other insects.  His conclusion is that for any indoor woodwork projects, I should only use kiln-dried lumber.  Do you agree?  Why or why not?  Fortunately, he's well-respected, trustworthy, and at $.35/bd-ft dried, affordable.  But I can air-dry for free, so I'd be curious to know when, if ever, that may be workable. Kyle Huy's Questions: I have another good fundamentals of woodworking type question for you. Could you explain the differences between grain density and porosity? For a while I thought I knew what at least one of these meant. That was until I heard Guy describe oak as a tight-grained, open pore species. That whole description goes more or less right over my head. I'd really appreciate it if you guys could explain what grain density and wood porosity look like visually, as well as what effects these attributes have on working with a particular species, finishing it, etc.  Thanks for all of your time and for sharing your expertise with all of us. The Fridays when you guys have new episodes are my favorite days of the week. Zach Hello Friends, I have a woodshop at my house in the PNW.  I’m somewhere between a beginner and not a beginner. If you want to answer this question on your fantastic podcast, you can of course skip the preamble.  I offer it here so you can understand the context and environment in which my question lives.  Because we are friends, I care what you think, so I hope you don’t arrive at the conclusion that I’m impractical.  I’ve tried to create a shop environment that incorporates a whimsical and creative aesthetic because that is how I aspire to be in this space. I built an entry door and carriage doors for my 500sq foot detached woodshop.  Doors guts are constructed from poplar frames, 1.5” ridged insulation in the voids, MDO skin on the exterior side trimmed in the craftsman style with ¾ cedar.  The interior side of the doors are skinned in plywood and laminated with orange counter top material.  The orange is the same color as those orange shirts people who work hard wear.  I like to wear these shirts to give my wife the impression that I too am working and not just fudging around.  I wanted my workshop to feel likewise.  Door window sills and trim are walnut.  On the entry door, I’ve installed a commercial style stainless steel handset modified for a 3” thick door.  Carriage doors are hung with 4 heavy duty sealed ball bearing hinges per side.  For the carriage doors, I had custom astragals and a threshold plate fabricated at a local metalworking shop, and used stainless steel cane bolts that plunge through the threshold plate to hold the doors tight against the weather seals and another set of cane bolts at the top to complete the seal.  The carriage door handles are two of my favorite axes.  I designed mounting hardware, built by the fabricator, with a quick release pin system so I can pull them off when I need them for axe related business.  Inside the shop, I’ve installed antique reclaimed maple flooring on the walls.  The flooring was recovered from a factory that used to make steam powered tractors for hauling giant old growth redwood trees out of the forests on the west coast in the late 1800’s.  It seemed like a fitting retirement for these floors.  I didn’t resurface the flooring (which is now walling) so it retains all of its history, factory floor markings, old holes for mounting machinery etc.  Now that the doors are in, I need to install interior trim around the frames that is worthy of the walls and doors.  I went to Goby (https://gobywalnut.com) to procure materials.  They specialize in Oregon hardwoods such as Oregon Black Walnut, Big Leaf Maple, Oregon White Oak, Madrone, and Myrtle.  I came home with some burled live edge Big Leaf stock.  My idea is to trim the door frames in maple, with the inside edge (nearest the door) all squared and straight, and the outside edges of the left, right and top trim pieces being irregular and strange.  Preparing and finishing these trim pieces is the nature of my questions: I have a ten-foot long 12/4 burled and figured maple board with a live edge on one side.  The board ranges from 9” to 18” wide.  My plan is to resaw it into a two 1.5” ish boards and dimension them down to about 1 ¼ to make the parts for my project.  Before I do that, I need to clean up the burled protrusions on the live edge side because I think it will be easier to do that before I resaw it. My first question is how do I clean up the live edge burls?  Some of the live edge is typical, but other sections have a lot of terrifying spiked peaks and valleys where a burl has boiled out of the tree.  It looks like the surface of the sun right before it’s getting ready to disrupt our global communications system for a few hours.  If it helps to understand what I’m dealing with, my wife saw the board when I brought it home said things like “your wood is being a drama queen” and “it’s trying to do too much” and “how much was that”.  To experiment, I took a wire brush to a small section just to see what would happen.  It worked well from the standpoint of clearing out debris, removing bark and burrs.  But I suspect this isn’t the best method for ultimately prepping this for finishing and is probably a crime. Once I get the edge cleaned up, I’ll resaw and dimension my parts.  Getting this 10 foot 12/4 stock up onto my bandsaw and perfectly slicing it into two equal pieces will probably go great.   Then I’ll sand the faces to 220.  That’s where my extensive experience runs out.    Rather than give up at this point, what can I do to bring out the wild figuring on these boards?  Fesstool made me buy higher grits of sandpaper like 400, 800, 1000 etc that I haven’t used.  Is this why I have these grits? Unlike everything else in my life, I don’t want to overthink this, but I’m starting to wonder how much that twisted, gnarled bubbling burled edge is going to drip finish on the rest of the board after I spray it.  Should I consider frog taping the faces, spraying the live edge first and then shoot the face as a second operation after the edges are done?  Can one of you come over? I’ve never used shellac before, but I’ve listened to every one of your episodes so I feel like I’m probably an expert in shellac and pound cut related activities.  I have a 5 stage Fujispray system that I’ve used in the past to drip finishes on the floor and all over myself and my work pieces.  I also have some rags. Robert

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• Project Fatigue, Dowels VS. Dominoes, Sewing Machine? and MORE!!!

  This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: I recently bought a good amount of S3S ambrosia Maple from Rockler. I bought it at a crazy discount. The first time I picked some up they were selling it for $3 per board foot, and when I came in a few weeks later it had dropped to $1 per board foot. I asked multiple employees why the price was so low. They all said that they simply just didn't have room for the material. Looking around this seemed to be the case.  I have been storing the wood in the loft of my shed/shop for several weeks now, which is cool and dry this time of year. I finally decided to begin a project using some of this material, but to my dismay I have discovered that most of the boards have a twist in them. I've been able to minimize this problem by strategically cutting the boards into smaller pieces, but when I put them in my crosscut sled, I've noticed that a few of the boards aren't even flat on the edge that is supposed to be jointed. Is this something I should expect after moving lumber that had been stored somewhere with moderate temperature and humidity to a cooler and dryer location? Or is it possible the store was selling this wood for so cheap because people had had issues with this material already? I try not to be overly fussy, especially when I've I've gotten a good deal on something, but this is one of the first times that I've purchased a significant amount of hardwood from a higher quality store and what I'm looking at is about the same quality I'd expect after picking out hardwood boards at random from a big box store. Lastly, considering that I don't have a joiner or a planer, is there any way for me to try to correct the twist in these boards? For now I just have worst of the boards clamped down to a flat surface. Thanks in advance for your time and your feedback. Sincerely, Zach Owens Hi guys, I have a question about how long does it takes, when working on a project, before "project fatigue" sets in?  I woodwork for at least an hour or more everyday (much more on the weekends) and I have built book cases, a fancy cat tree, a hallway table, small boxes, solid oak doors, and shop furniture in the past year.  Sometimes I get to the point where I just want to finish up the current project so I can start something new.   It seems to happen around the 4 to 6 week mark.  Do you ever get project fatigue?  Just curious if I'm not alone. Also, thank you to Guy for discussing hide glue and shellac in previous podcasts.  I'm now making my own glue and dissolving my own shellac flakes.  I like the traditional aspect and easy of use.      Cheers Chris from North Mankato, MN Guys Questions: I would like to build my kids a set of montessori style bookshelves out of solid maple, and I can see myself making more of these in the future for others. So, I am trying to figure out how to make the joinery fast, accurate and repeatable.  Also, I would like to avoid using screws and I do not own a domino, so I think that probably makes dowels the best option?   How would you make the 2 sides to this bookshelf?  My thoughts are to make a template for the sides so I can route the shape.  I am struggling with the dowels...  Due to wood movement in the vertical shelf pieces, I was thinking about using 2 dowels, where one will be fixed and the other will have a slot cut into the side panel. See attached photos. Each horizontal shelf piece will be dadoed to the vertical shelf piece and the 4 shelves will not be connected to each other to help account for wood movement.  If I use an mdf template for the sides and also put the dowel holes and slots in it, how would you cut the holes and slots? Router, router with bearing, drill press, hand drill?  Is there a better way that could be easier or faster than I am missing? Thank you for all you help! Jeff Hello all! Thank you for a great show! About a year ago I built a cabinet with a cherry top. It was finished with a single coat Zinser Bulls Eye Seal Coat, followed by 3 coats of Poly. (wiped on). See original picture attached. Since then in a few places it developed small white spots. What would you recommend for me to do to fix it? Can I just apply a few more coats on top? If so, how would I prep the top? Or do I need to sand it back to bare wood? If so, what would be the process to sand it back?  Bonus question, what could I have done to fail to prevent this?  Max Huys Questions: 2. I remember a while back Huy mentioned buying a sewing machine and considering upholstery. Have you don’t anything with it? My wife has been on me for years to build a chaise lounge for our living room for a specific space, but even watching folks demonstrate the art I get a bit frazzled. I know Guy’s solution-just go buy the damn cushions. So, Guy, would you have your wife buy them first and build around them or build the piece (whatever it may be) and send her on a quest to find some to fit? Any resources for upholstery on wooden furniture? Peter Downing A few  years ago I got some beautiful, large pieces of white oak from a neighor's fallen tree.  I've had them in my garage where they've been slowly drying.  Unfortunately, I didn't strip the bark and now I'm seeing signs of bug infestation.  The bugs seem confined to the space between the wood and the bark.  After striping the bark how can I kill the bugs before bringing them into the shop? These logs will be used for turning so I could use an insecticide and just wear a mask with an organic compound filter while turning.  Or, I could use a handheld power planer to just hog off any signs of insects in the outer layer of the log. Do you have any ideas? Jim

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