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Beyond the Garden Basics Podcast

Farmer Fred
Beyond the Garden Basics Podcast
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  • Trees vs Storms, Expanded
    This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit gardenbasics.substack.comToday’s newsletter podcast features an arborist discussing ways you can spot when your trees may be in danger of falling, especially in a wet, windy winter (recorded as the California drought was ending). Also: Consulting Arborist Michael Santos tells us about online resources for homeowners to get more information about the trees in their yard.More information about what was discussed in the podcast can be found at the University of California Ag and Natural Resources publication, “Inspect Your Landscape Trees for Hazards”.How to (Possibly) Thwart Tree Damage Before a StormDuring or after a particularly violent fall or winter wind/rain/snow storm, TV news crews usually rush to the most photogenic damage during these rare occasions: downed trees, usually leaning against a house or crushing a car.Without the correct care of the trees on your property, winter storms and trees will not get along. Most susceptible are the trees that keep their leaves year round, including broadleaf evergreens, such as eucalyptus and camphor. Add the conifer family to that list: pines, firs, redwoods and cedars. All that mass of greenery acts as a sail in a heavy wind, bending trees at ridiculous angles. Another cause of winter tree failure is crown rot, which despite its name, refers to the deterioration of the root system near the base of the tree. Combine that with a couple of inches of rain onto already saturated soils, and you have tree roots heaving towards the surface, leading to pictures, such as the one above, popping up on the TV news.If this is the view from your window, the day after a major rain and wind storm is not necessarily the best day for the homeowner to tackle the hazardous task of cleaning up the remnants of trees, shrubs and other plants that took a beating. If wind and rain is still in the forecast, the prevalence of slippery conditions and the chance of more falling debris should limit your cleaning chores to dragging broken branches away from the scene of the crime. It is not a good day to be climbing ladders or scrambling into trees while balancing a chain saw. Leave that to the professionals.Signs of Potential Tree FailureArborists offer this good piece of advice for those surveying the fallen aftermath of a major storm: Limb failure is largely a product of poor tree maintenance over time. Take care of your trees, or they may take care of themselves in ways you won’t appreciate. According to the University of California publication, “Inspect Your Landscape Trees for Hazards”, a nice day in autumn (or winter, spring or summer, for that matter) is the time to take an inventory of any possible future tree damage before you, your house or your car becomes the next victim of a falling tree or branch.Leaning Trees: Are your trees not as upright as the result of recent heavy winds? Can you see newly upheaved roots or soil around those trees? Then, immediate action is required: call in a professional, certified, bonded and insured arborist to do an onsite inspection and offer a solution (find one near you at treesaregood.org). Newly leaning trees are an imminent hazard. If you have a tree that has leaned for a number of years, that tree can still be a hazard during wet, windy weather. Taking periodic photographs can help you determine if a greater lean is developing.Multiple Trunked Trees: This co-dominant condition can result in breakage of major tree parts during storms. Usually, these trunks are weakly attached. Inspect the point where the two trunks meet; if you see splitting beginning, call in an arborist.Weakly Attached Branches: Trees with many branches arising from the same point on the trunk are prone to breaking during wind storms. Prune out any split branches. Thin out multiple branches.Hanging or Broken Branches: If you see storm damaged branches hanging from the tree, remove them as soon as possible. This includes removing any completely broken branches that may be resting elsewhere in the tree’s canopy.Cracks in Trunks and Branches: Measure the depth of any cracks with a ruler. If those cracks are more than three inches deep, call in an arborist to determine the best course of action.Dead Branches/Trees: Branches or entire trees that have completely died are very likely to come tumbling down in a storm. Dead branches are most noticeable in the summer when the tree is in full leaf.Cavities and Decay: Large, open pockets where branches meet the trunk, or at the base of the trunk, can mean big trouble. The presence of mushrooms on the bark or on exposed roots may indicate wood decay. Call in an arborist.Beyond The Garden Basics is a reader-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber.The Arbor Day Foundation website has this guide to proper pruning techniques.Also: Tips for Hiring an Arborist. Beyond the Paywall:• Tree Pruning Advice• The Three-Cut Method for larger branches• Small Trees for Small Yards, Medium-Sized Trees for larger Suburban lots• How to Successfully Plant a Tree• The podcast transcript
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  • Easy Cool Season Soil Feeding Tips
    On Episode 144 of the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred podcast, we talked about some easy ways to improve your soil, including leaving crop remains (the roots) and topping the garden beds in the winter with shredded leaves from your trees. Also, we talked about how adding wood ash to your garden can change the pH of your soil (bottom line: know your pH).One warning about adding leaves to the top of your garden bed to improve the soil, from organic gardening professional, Living Resources president Steve Zien: this will only work if you have a healthy soil to begin with.So, the question arises: how do you start to get a healthier soil? Zien responds:“Don’t have an organic garden? Leaving crop residue and leaf mulch on the soil surface will still be worthwhile. Mulch and crop residue protects the soil from nature’s forces of wind and water, reducing erosion and the impact of raindrops on bare soil. When a raindrop hits bare soil it loosens the sand, silt and in particular clay particles and moves them around in a way that results in the creation of a hard crust that seals off the soil restricting the movement of air, water, nutrients and biology from entering the soil. Crop residue and mulch also conserves moisture, reduces the need for irrigation, prevents weed growth and insulates the root zone from heat and cold creating a more favorable environment for beneficial soil biology and your plants roots.When the crop residue and mulch break down and enter the soil, nutrients and organic mater become available to an ever increasing abundance and diversity of soil biology known as the soil food web. These organisms nurture your plants while protecting them from pests. They also glue and tie individual soil particles (sand, slit, and clay) to create favorable soil structure with a diversity of pore space sizes. Small and medium size pores hold on to water that will be available to soil biology including plant roots. Large pore spaces drain providing life- giving oxygen while serving as place for plant roots to grow. Have a heavy clay soil? Only a healthy soil food web that can create and maintain soil structure will open up that clay soil, allowing water to penetrate into and percolate through the soil.The goal of every gardener should be to create a healthy soil food web that will yield the most productive and nutritious foods and beautiful landscapes. Leaving crop residue and mulch on the soil surface is just one technique to accomplish this goal. Regularly applying compost and worm castings to the soil surface not only supplies additional soil biology but organic matter, the energy source for the soil food web. It is also important to minimize soil disturbance (cultivation, tillage) that reduces both the diversity and abundance of soil life.One must also realize that soil organisms are destroyed by synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, therefore their use must be eliminated or at least minimized. One should only use organic fertilizers, ideally following the recommendations of a soil test. Rototilling the soil, using a synthetic fertilizer or pesticides will only be a step backward in creating a vibrant and resilient soil food web.The sooner and more completely you adopt these practices (among many other regenerative soil practices) the faster you will create a healthy soil food web with good soil structure and an abundance of organic matter capable of producing the garden and landscape you dream of.”We are hopeful Mr. Z shares with us in the future those “many other regenerative soil practices”.Below the paywall:• Understanding soil pH levels (with nifty charts)• Is wood ash right for your garden? (Depends on your current soil pH)• The danger to your garden soil of too much wood ash.• Soil pH test kits Buddy - the stray cat that showed up 11 years ago and never left - says, “Your paid subscription to the Beyond The Garden Basics newsletter and podcast means, unlike the dogs, I can still get both dry and wet food! Thank you.Know Your Soil pHBlame the Danes if when the garden conversation turns to “pH” - a term that translates as “potential Hydrogen” - your mind wanders to thoughts of social media posts of kittens riding a Roomba.According to the UC Master Gardeners of Napa County: “In 1909 Danish biochemists decided to use pH as shorthand for potential hydrogen. They developed a pH scale, ranging from 0 to 14, to represent how many hydrogen ions (H+) are present in a sample. According to the scale, distilled water is a 7 (neutral). Anything under seven is considered acidic (sour), while anything above 7 is alkaline (sweet).“These values are not linear but, rather, logarithmic. That means that a sample with a pH of 6 is 10 times more acidic than a sample with a pH of 7.“What does pH have to do with gardening? Everything. A soil’s pH affects the ability of plant roots to absorb nutrients and water. Most minerals in the soil must be dissolved to be absorbed by a plant’s roots. Soil that is slightly acidic (6.2 to 6.8) or slightly alkaline (7.4 to 7.8) will dissolve minerals the best.“When soil is too acidic (pH below 5.5) new foliage looks yellow, distorted and possibly black around the edges and the plant does not grow. When soil is alkaline (pH above 8), plant leaves may look yellow between the veins or have a bleached or mottled and blotchy look. New growth may have brown or black leaf tips.”On the above chart, note how some elements, such as iron, become less available to plants as the pH rises. “Less available” doesn’t mean the soil is missing that element; it just means the plant isn’t able to uptake it because of the existing pH level.In discussing the use of wood ash in the garden with college horticulture professor (retired) Debbie Flower, also on Episode 144 of Garden Basics, she pointed out to know your soil pH before you add any wood ash. Wood ash is highly alkaline and can throw your soil out of whack if your soil is already teetering on too much alkalinity (at or above 7.0).Scenic Bypass: Is Wood Ash Right for Your Garden?Ed Perry, retired Stanislaus County (CA)-based UC Farm Advisor, has the answer to that question. And of course, the answer is, “It depends.” Plus, it depends how much wood ash you added to the garden. Too much can lead to trouble. Never use the ash from charcoal briquettes in a garden. The ashes of manufactured coals may contain too many extraneous ingredients, such as binders and lighter fluid, which can be detrimental to your soil.“Wood ashes contain chemicals which are very alkaline with a pH of 10 to 12,” explained Perry. “They are harmful at high rates, especially in soils that are already alkaline. Since about 80 to 90 percent of wood ashes are water-soluble mineral matter, high rates can cause salts to build up in soils resulting in plant injury.” To limit problems of excess salinity, alkalinity, and plant nutrient availability, Perry recommends no more than 5 pounds of wood ash per 100 square feet, scattered on freshly tilled soil, and raked in, once per year.In his publication, “Wood Ashes as a Garden Fertilizer”, Perry points out that in general, wood ashes contain five to seven percent potassium and about two percent phosphorus. They also contain 25 to 50 percent calcium compounds. The presence of phosphorus in a fertilizer encourages flowering and fruiting.Chances are, that wood ash bucket you’re hauling out of the house is holding more than five pounds. Try scattering it evenly across a surface, 10 feet by 10 feet, and you will see how difficult it is (especially if the wind is blowing) and how thin the final layer must be on the soil surface.Perry warns gardeners to avoid contact between freshly spread ashes and germinating seeds or new plant roots by spreading ashes a few inches away from plants. Ashes that settle on foliage can cause burning. Prevent this by thoroughly rinsing plants after applying ashes.Because ashes are alkaline, avoid using them around azaleas, camellias, and other acid-loving plants. Wood ashes are very low in nitrogen and cannot supply your plants’ needs for this element. You will need to follow your normal nitrogen fertilizer schedule when ashes are applied.Too Much Salt: It’s Bad for Your Garden, Too.The University of California Cooperative Extension in Ventura and Contra Costa Counties have publications on this topic, as well. They repeat this warning about using wood ashes in the garden: “A further compounding problem is that about 80 to 90 percent of the minerals in wood ashes are water-soluble, so that high application rates can cause salts to build up in soils, resulting in plant injury.”However, there is one nugget of potential usefulness about using wood ashes in the garden. According to the Butte County UC Master Gardeners, dry ashes, or other abrasives such as diatomaceous earth can be used as barriers for slugs and snails. Such abrasives should be piled about one inch high and 3 inches wide to be effective. However, these materials lose their deterrent value if they become damp, making them not very useful in most garden situations.Meanwhile, Back in the Vegetable Garden… Here’s a list of the preferred pH range of many garden vegetables, from the University of Nebraska: Which pH Test Kit is Right for You?About pH test kits: they run the gamut of price and quality. Among the easiest and most widely available are the inexpensive pH test kits found at nurseries, online, and home supply stores, such as this from Rapitest. A step up, but subject to fluctuations and durability issues, are the pH meters that are available (you get what you pay for!). For more accuracy, consider the LaMotte test kits, which also give rough measurements of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium content, along with 2 booklets that are very educational.TRANSCRIPT - Steve Zien on Easy Cool Weather Soil Improvement TipsFarmer FredWell, we’re going from summer gardening to cool season gardening and maybe you don’t want to put in cool season crops. Maybe you don’t want to deal with plants that might be killed by a frost or freeze. But don’t leave your summer garden intact. In its place, there are some cheap and easy things you can do that will not only minimize pest problems for the following years, but also during the winter, feed your soil and make it even better for next year. We’re talking with Steve Zien. He is Sacramento’s organic advocate. An organic gardener for decades. He ran his own organic gardening and consulting company for decades. And Steve, I know we’ve talked about cover crops before, but going beyond cover crops. If people want an easy way to feed their soil during the winter, and they don’t want to grow cool season crops... I think one of the easiest things to do, well two things to do, is a cut down everything to soil level. If you’re growing tomatoes and peppers, just cut them off at the soil level, but leave the roots in the soil and then cover that soil with leaves that are falling from the trees in the fall, grind them up with your mower or a weed whacker or something and just put down six-eight - twelve inches of leaves on top of that garden bed.Steve ZienYeah, it’s absolutely wonderful. It regulates the soil temperature, the soil temperature will be warmer. The fact that it’s all ground up makes it easier for the biology that’s in the soil to come up into that mulch and munch it down. And then the rains will help leach those small little particles down. The worms that are in your soil will come up and feed on that every single day. And you know if it’s a thick mulch, even at night, because it’ll be dark and they will be aerating your soil and and taking that organic matter of material down into the soil. And the nutrients that leach through by the rains will also leach the biology because that’ll start composting on the top of the soil and the biology that’s compost then will increase in numbers and will end up moving down into the soil as well. So you will get nutrients move down into the soil and increase the nutrient value and you will get more soil biology. And the more soil biology you have, the more diversity, the more numbers, the healthier your soil is and the healthier your crops will be. I just took a class recently, everybody has been talking about rotating your crops for decades to reduce pest problems. And they’re saying that if you have the right biology and you put down you know, you either grow cover crops or you put down a thick mulch, you really will have the biology in there, the beneficial soil biology to naturally combat the pest problems and you should not have to rotate your crops.Farmer FredI love it when you’re a contrarian. And, it makes perfect sense, too.Steve ZienYeah, if you’ve got the good soil biology down there. And then you’re feeding it with either a cover crop or with a thick mulch, you’re feeding though that good biology. And so the good biology will fight it out basically with the bad biology and not allowing them to grow in substantial numbers, where they could do harm to your plants the following season.Farmer FredNow I mentioned earlier about clipping off the tops of the plants and leaving the roots in place, true or false.Steve ZienTrue. Because they will decompose and typically will decompose pretty fastly. Again, that’s if you have an organic, happy, healthy soil. If you’ve been using pesticides, you’ve been using synthetic fertilizers, the biology isn’t going to be there to break that stuff down. But if you are growing organically, you’ll have a lot of biology in your soil that stuff most of those roots will break down very very quickly. And they will create air channels there and they will end up aerating your soil. Because where the root was, there’s nothing there anymore. And so you’ve got these big pore spaces. So when you irrigate next spring, the water’s gonna move in through the soil, the worms can move through the soil better, the soil biology can, you know, all of the various you know, microbes and beneficial mites and protozoa and all those guys can move through the soil and do their job better.Farmer FredAnd you’re also improving water percolation for the years ahead by keeping those roots in.Steve ZienExactly. Because they will decompose. The biology will basically reduce them to nothing. And there will be large, large pore spaces where those roots were and so when you irrigate, the water will go down very, very nicely, which is important. If you’ve got a clay soil, and at least here in the Sacramento region, most gardeners have a clay soil.Farmer FredI think across the country, there are a lot of gardeners who are dealing with clay soil. Yes. You mentioned a very unusual word here. I’m not sure what it is. You’re talking about to help that mulch layer on top break down, that “rain” could do that. What is this thing called “rain” that you’re talking?Steve ZienI don’t know. It’s been a long time. And you know, in the last year we got what, seven inches, something like that.Farmer FredYeah. Now that brings up a question if it doesn’t rain. Man, I hope it rains, but if it doesn’t, this fall and winter here in California and in many areas of the West, if you don’t get the fall and the winter rain, should you irrigate the top of that mulch, like once a week? Just turn on a hose and start sprinkling it?Steve ZienI think it would be a good idea once in a while. Certainly, once a week it’s not necessary. Typically, if you do it once in the wintertime, it’s not very hot. In many cases, it will hopefully be cloudy. Make sure that mulch is moist, not wet, but moist when you put it down or after you put it down. And then, before you add more moisture, don’t just look at the surface, dig down an inch or two and see if it’s dry. And if it’s dry, then you might want to add more more water.Farmer FredAlright, it’s a good point. And to reinforce something we said earlier: the smaller the pieces of those leaves that you’re using as mulch, the better the quicker we can break down and feed the soil. And plus, if you’re just stacking 12 inches of unchopped leaves on top of your garden bed, you might create an anaerobic environment.Steve ZienIt would help to grind it up some way. And you know a lawnmower works well. And you mentioned that another easy way to do it if you’ve got a string trimmer is get like a five gallon or get a garbage can and put a small amount of the the mulch in the garbage can and then run your weed eater down in there and it’ll chop it up pretty nicely as well. It’s an alternative way to do it.Farmer FredAnd to save wear and tear on that garbage can make sure it’s a metal garbage can, which are still available. They’re out there. Yeah, usually a 27 or 32 gallon metal garbage can and then put those whole leaves in, like you said, maybe fill up that can 1/3 and then put your string trimmer in and turn it on, whirl it around a while and you’d be surprised at how the level of leaves drops. And then you can pile more in there and then chop it up again and just do it in increments like that.Steve ZienYeah. And make sure you have a string trimmer. I know on some string trimmers, you can put like metal blades on them. That’s gonna pretty much destroy your container.Farmer FredYeah, and wear eye protection anytime you do that. And string trimmers, not even the plastic blades. The string trimmer is best. Yes. If you’re not going to be planting cool season crops this year, then the least you can do for your soil is cover it with mulch, chopped up leaves is great. Just leave it on til spring and you don’t even have to remove it in spring. You can just move it aside and plant whatever you’re going to put in come springtime and keep that as a permanent mulching area. Just make room for your plants.Steve ZienExactly.Farmer FredMr. Exactly is with us. Steve Zien, Sacramento’s organic advocate, of Living Resources Company. Steve, thanks for the good cool season advice.Steve ZienIt’s been a pleasure as always, Fred.Beyond The Garden Basics is a reader-supported publication. To receive complete, new posts, have access to all the back issues of this newsletter and support my work, consider becoming a paid subscriber.Thanks for Subscribing and Spreading the Word About the Garden Basics with Farmer Fred newsletter, I appreciate your support (and my bikes appreciate it, too, especially after bouts of interval training) Thank You!Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County. And he likes to climb (and descend) on his bike. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe
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  • Why There Should be a Chipper Shredder in your Garden
    This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit gardenbasics.substack.comAre you thinking about buying a rototiller? How about instead purchasing a chipper/shredder? Now, that’s a machine that’s going to make easy work of chopping up your garden clippings including tree limbs. it’s going to make it into the greatest mulch you could possibly own. The latest research shows that rototilling your soil actually damages soil structure and doesn’t do anything good for the soil biology. On the other hand, the end result of using a chipper/shredder is going to provide you with a quality of mulch that we like to call, “gardeners’ gold”.Northern California Organic Gardening Consultant Steve Zien has some rather strong thoughts on this subject. Go back and listen to his comments back in Episode 89 of the Garden Basics podcast, from 2021.Thinking that perhaps his opinions may have mellowed on the chipper-shredder vs rototiller choice over the last four years, I recently asked for his thoughts. Nope. No change. Here’s what he had to say (in bullets):Chipper shredderPros:• Eliminates or dramatically reduces green waste• Helps eliminate the need for a rototiller• Provides material for mulch or compost• When shreddings are applied to soil surface:• Feeds soil biology – resulting in improvements in:• Soil structure (pore space diversity)• Improve movement in soil by water, air, roots, soil biology• Soil water holding capacity (drought resistance)• Nutrient holding capacity• Biological diversity of soil microbes• Greater variety of nutrients, vitamins etc. available to plants• Improves pest resistance• Plant health improves (drought resistance, pest resistance)• Nutrient availability to plants improve• Availability of natural growth hormones, vitamins improves• Nutrient content of vegetables improves• Sequesters carbon – contributes to the reversal of climate change• Weed management benefits• Mulch created by chipper/shredder moderates soil temperatures• Erosion protection (mulch slows the force of falling rain)• Mulch created by chipper/shredder repels some pestsCons:• Expensive• Hard work. And, when done, you then have to apply the mulch to soil surface• Don’t chip diseased materialRototiller:Pros:• Get to smell actinomycetes• Mental connection to past horticultural practices (although no longer recommended)• Creates fine seedbed – but soil quickly becomes compacted making it difficult for sprouts to developCons:• It’s hard work• Expensive• Destroys soil structure• Compacts soil (reducing aeration, drainage, limit root development)• Fine clays quickly fill in pore spaces• Increases runoff – transporting soil, nutrients and pesticides into our waterways• Kills beneficial soil biology• Makes it harder for your plants to grow• Harder to obtain water, nutrients, growth hormones, vitamins• Increases pest susceptibility due in part to:• Reduced crop health• Pest management provided by soil biology• Reduces nutrient content of food crops• Results in the need for additional irrigation, fertilization, pesticides• Mother Nature’s natural rototillers (earthworms) are killed by the blades.• Creates biological imbalance - abundance of bacteria vs. fungi (raises pH)• Loss in biological diversity in the soil• Reduction of soil health (results in reduction of plant health)• Reduces ability of soil to function• Releases greenhouse gasses (CO2) to atmosphere – contributing to global climate change• Reduces organic matter content• Reduces soils water holding capacity – need to irrigate more/more runoff….• Makes plants more susceptible to drought• Reduces food for soil biology• Reduces soil productivity• Reduces soil cover• People feel they need to till every spring because previous tillage created a compacted, dead soil below• Brings up weed seeds so they can germinateObviously, Steve has a bleak future as a salesman at Troy-Bilt.What About Electric Chipper/Shredders?For that, we turn to Debbie Flower, who owns an electric chipper-shredder, the 15 amp Sun Joe. Her review:My chipper is a Sun Joe 15 amp Electric Wood Chipper/Shredder plug-in, model #CJ602E. I have had the pleasure of using it a few times. It is a compact, easy to store machine. The 6” wheels and light weight make it easy to move around the yard.Debbie has a lot more thoughts about her electric chipper shredder, including the downsides of electric. Listen to today’s newsletter podcast to find out more.My thoughts about electric-chipper shredders are closely aligned with Brad Gay’s opinion (paid subscribers will hear his comments in the podcast). Reviewers of this electric chipper shredder say they have issues including the shredding problems mentioned by Debbie, and the overheating problem she mentioned. As Brad said, it’s cheaper to replace a belt on a gas chipper/shredder when the machine gets overwhelmed to the point of freezing up with material jammed in the hopper, than it is to replace a burned out electric motor. And make sure you plug the unit into a 20 amp outlet, not 15, to avoid tripping either the house circuit or the overload circuit on the machine. And as with any outdoor electric-powered garden implement, make sure you have the right gauge extension cord which is determined by the power pull of the unit as well as the length of the extension cord.Reviews of Sun Joe chipper shredders by owners on Amazon also complained about the unit’s inability to chop thin branches, as well as the difficulty to replace the blades, which need to be sharp to do an effective job. Still, most reviewers were very satisfied with this particular Sun Joe 15 amp chipper-shredder. One reviewer did offer a helpful suggestion to avoid clogging situations: “If you feed large branches up to 1” (or more) you really have to hold on to them and only let it take a little at a time, pull it up off the cutter (still inside the safe area) then feed more. One reason it jammed is that when it passes the safety cover it’s still several inches long, which is good safety wise, but it will fall over onto the cutters when you’re no longer holding on to it. That ends up turning that 1” diameter stick into a 1 1/2” + oval. (turn a cylinder on an angle and it’s a long oval) Feed something small along side it and it will keep it vertical. That can help. I learned to just chip smaller stuff.”Below the paywall, here’s what awaits paid subscribers:• Why choosing a chipper-shredder with the right sized flywheel is so important.• Replaceable exit chute screens can give you the size mulch you want.• How to protect yourself when shredding long vines, such as grapevines.• Information on PTO-powered chipper shredders.
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  • Ants!
    This is a free preview of a paid episode. To hear more, visit gardenbasics.substack.comWhen it gets hot, the ants start marching indoors. When it rains, in come the ants. Too cold? The ants know where its nice and cozy: your kitchen, bathroom and pet food bowls. Outdoors, pet food and garbage cans are also ant attractants. Argentine ants, those busy little black ants, are in march formation year round.In years past, we would reach for the spray can and douse those little scavengers. But not anymore. Many of those spray pesticides are only effective with direct contact on the ants. And the stronger sprays, with residual action to thwart the next wave of ants, is potentially harmful to you, your kids, your pets.So, here is what we are doing now: following the recommendations of the UC Davis Integrated Pest Management Project for Ant Control.That includes:• Determine what the ants are attracted to and remove the food source• Vacuum trails, wipe them with soapy water, or spray with window cleaner• Locate entry points and caulk openings or plug with petroleum jelly• Put out bait stations with liquid ant bait or apply gel bait at entry points• Baits take time to work so continue to clean up trails• Indoor sprays are not usually necessary.• Avoid products packaged as granules that contain the active ingredients cyfluthrin or permethrin. Although these products may be mistaken for baits, they are actually contact insecticides that rapidly kill foragers and do not control the colony.Before wiping up (or wiping out) the little critters, follow their trail. Note their entry point into the house. Seal it up. We have found ants entering the house in a variety of small avenues: beneath moulding, cracks in the window frame, behind electrical outlet plates...and one of the ants’ favorite entries: that large holes beneath the sink where the pipes enter the house.According to the UC IPM page on ant control, “If ants can be thoroughly washed away and excluded from an area, an insecticide is probably not necessary. Vacuuming up ant trails or sponging or mopping them with soapy water may be as effective as an insecticide spray in temporarily removing foraging ants in a building because it removes the ant’s scent trail, especially if thorough cleaning is done at the entry points. Some soap products such as window cleaners can kill ants on contact but leave no residual toxicity. Certain plant-based oils are also applied for this purpose, but their odor can be offensive.”Coming Up After the Paywall• Highly effective liquid boric acid products for ant control.• How to control ants in a raised garden bed.• Debbie Flower’s home recipe for ant control• How outdoor ants are ecologically beneficial.
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  • "How Am I Going to Feed My Family?"
    One of my frequent bicycling routes takes me by a local food bank. Over the years as I pedal by in the morning, I’ve seen the line of cars increase while waiting for the 10 am food bank opening. Lines of a half block or more were common during the age of Covid (2021-2022).Lately, the line of cars has not only increased in length, it’s now 2 lanes of traffic stretching down the road waiting for a bag or two of food. Fortunately, the road widens out as it approaches the food bank, and the employees there have adopted the Dutch Brothers Coffee / In-and-Out Hamburger traffic facilitating tactic of walking the lines of cars, and getting the information they need (I’m still trying to figure out what Dutch Brothers is putting in their $6+ coffee drinks that brings in such a large crowd. Is it the sugar?).The number of households living paycheck to paycheck has risen dramatically - up to two-thirds of all households in the U.S. living on the edge - according to one report. There’s more hurt on the way because of recent job losses due to AI, governmental shutdown of services, increased food costs due to tariffs, housing costs, and all the other reasons that you don’t want to be reading about in a gardening column.GARDENERS CAN HELPStill, gardeners can help out their neighbors by donating their excess backyard produce - vegetables and fruit - to a nearby food bank or food pantry. For example, right now in late October, here in USDA Zone 9 (and I know I am not alone in this bounty), there’s a lot of sweet peppers waiting to be harvested - definitely more than we can eat or process into relish. And what are those bright orange orbs staring at me from that tree outside my window? Oh yeah, Fuyu persimmons, also more than we can eat or dehydrate, that will be ready to harvest in a week or two. Definitely, these are the prime mid-Autumn candidates for transporting to the local food bank. Coming up in winter, it will be the cornucopia of citrus - oranges, mandarins, lemons - that will be heading to the food bank, along with fresh greens.Don’t know where you’re nearest food bank is located? Go to AmpleHarvest.org, and find the food banks in your area. It’s quick, easy, and as far as I can tell in my own area, accurate. Your local food bank would probably welcome your donation of healthy, homegrown food (always check first).In this week’s newsletter podcast (above), Gary Oppenheimer, the founder of AmpleHarvest.org, talks about the need for more, fresh, wholesome foods getting into the hands (and mouths) of those who can’t afford to eat healthy, but want to. Give it a listen, or read the transcript, below. Thanks.There’s no paywall on today’s newsletter/podcast episode, because that would be counterproductive to helping get your excess garden harvest to the hungry. Still, thank you for your paid subscription to Beyond the Garden Basics!TRANSCRIPT Interview with Gary Oppenheimer of AmpleHarvest.org (recorded in 2020)Farmer Fred:[0:00] Every day in every corner of the United States, children and adults are worrying about finding enough food to put on the dinner table while thousands of pounds of food are being thrown away from backyard gardens, from small farms. Millions of Americans are unable to get enough fresh food to maintain proper health. The United States has a malnourished population that needs more than processed foods in order to thrive. So many incredible food banks, pantries, and other hunger organizations are working tirelessly to alleviate hunger in our communities, but they consistently lack in donations of fresh produce. Luckily, you can help. By making regular donations of unused fresh produce to your local food pantry, you can be a part of the solution to increase the health of people in your neighborhood. And you can donate food that you grow or food that you buy. It’s easy.Farmer Fred:[0:55] The trick is finding the food pantry nearest you, and you can do that through an incredible site called AmpleHarvest.org. We’re talking with Gary Oppenheimer. He’s with AmpleHarvest.org. He’s the founder. It’s a unique nationwide resource that is eliminating the waste of food, the outcome being a reduction in hunger and malnutrition, along with an improved environment. There’s something like 42 million Americans who grow food in home gardens, community gardens, and their small farmers as well, who could easily donate their excess harvest to one of over 8,600 registered local food pantries spread across all 50 states. And Gary, I want to tell you, first of all, about my experience with your website, ampleharvest.org. There is a page there where you can go and find the food pantry nearest you. And I set a search of 15-mile radius around my house. And up popped, I’m counting, 14 food pantries I never knew existed, including one that is within walking distance. And it’s amazing how easy it could be for people who have an excess of tomatoes or squash or peppers or melons or fruit, where to take it to and how convenient that is. What was your inspiration, Gary, for starting ampleharvest.org?Gary Oppenheimer:[2:17] That’s a great question, actually. There are two things, two pieces of inspiration. One was I grew up hearing, “don’t waste food”. My grandparents always told me, you know, finish what’s on your plate. Kids are starving in Europe. So not wasting food was always inculcated into me. But as an adult and a master gardener, I was growing more food than I can use, and I couldn’t, I didn’t want to go to waste. My wife said, you can’t forget any more of this stuff in the house.Gary Oppenheimer:[2:42] And I struggled to find a place to donate the food to. It turns out I found a battered woman shelter in my town. I’m in Northern New Jersey. But when I had gone on Google to find out where their food pantries, Google said the nearest one was 25 miles away in another city. And I had an epiphany in March of 09. And I realized, wait a minute, this is an information problem. This is not a food problem. People aren’t hungry because America doesn’t have enough food. We actually throw away half the produce, never gets consumed. The problem gardeners across America have always had was miss and missing information. The misinformation was what we were all told at food drives, that you can only donate jars or cans or boxes, but no fresh food. We gardeners took away from that. You can’t donate the extra tomatoes. The missing information was where is a food pantry and what’s a good day of the week and time of day to donate it. When I realized that this was the information problem, I realized the solution was a web-based, an internet-based program that would both educate gardeners about their capacity, that they can indeed donate food.Gary Oppenheimer:[3:50] And to where to donate it near them, and the optimum day of the week and time of day. And that timing is super important because if a food pantry, for argument’s sake, was distributing food to hungry families on Sunday afternoons, the ideal time for you to bring it in is Sunday morning, which means the ideal time for you to harvest is either Sunday morning or Saturday night. So the food would go from your garden to the food pantry to a hungry family in hours, Number one, the food pantry didn’t have to buy refrigeration. And number two, the hungry family was getting food fresher than you and I can buy in a supermarket. It’s truly garden fresh food. And the whole thing came together for me in a one four-hour session on my computer. And seven weeks later, with the help of two volunteers, May 18, 2009, Ample Harvest Road rolled out. And it’s been growing in reach and impact ever since.Farmer Fred:[4:46] We’re going to be using a couple of terms here that people may get confused. I find it confusing as well. Maybe you can explain it. We will be talking about food banks and food pantries. What is the difference?Gary Oppenheimer:[4:57] Well, this is a fun question. All right. For most of America, for all of America, a food bank is a large industrial warehouse type operation, around 200 of them in America. They’re part of the Feeding America Network. These are large warehouses where large amounts of food come in and large amounts of food are then redistributed out to the local programs where hungry families go. So those local programs where hungry families go, there are around 33,500 across America, are usually called a food pantry and in some states a food cupboard or food shelf or food closet. The exception, as far as I know, was Oregon and Washington where those local programs are also called food banks. And you said a little bit ago that I think in Sacramento, they’re also sometimes called food banks. So in the vernacular, in the common language of food banks where a hungry family gets food, but in the real system, there’s a distinction. And the reason I had to create ampleharvest.org was because when the food went from a food drive to a food bank or a food pantry, it took too long. But when it went from a food drive or my garden, for that matter, to a food pantry, it could happen in 15 minutes. So this was an architectural discussion. This is great for a linguistic nerd, but it’s... If people want to use the word food bank, that’s perfectly fine. But I’ll use the word food pantry just to be more correct.Farmer Fred:[6:25] Ampleharvest.org is geared to a wide range of gardeners. You’ve got home gardeners, new gardeners, farmers and food producers, Master Gardeners, and school gardens. And boy, I’m thinking about food waste and all of a sudden, wow, school gardens. I wonder what they’re doing with all that excess food that they’re growing in their little school, especially when it may be happening in the summertime and there isn’t anybody there to harvest it?Gary Oppenheimer:[6:51] School gardens, you’re absolutely right. It’s also camp gardens, by the way. But a school garden, you’ve planted the stuff and then the kids are gone for the summer and who’s harvesting? Or the camp. The camp had a garden and come the end of August or September when kids go back to school, who’s harvesting? So they have the opportunity to also donate the food, by the way, as do other places that don’t think of themselves as gardens. You might have a golf course that has citrus fruits raining down. You might have a public park, for example.Gary Oppenheimer:[7:22] So there’s lots and lots of opportunity for food to be donated from different places. The work we’re doing is to enable as much wholesome, healthy, fresh, locally grown food to get to food pantries as possible, because that not only reduces hunger across America, but it also improves the nation’s health and well-being. The healthier your diet, obviously, the healthier you are. I’ll just give you one number which blew me away when I learned about it. Cisco Systems, the internet company, did an analysis of ampleharvest.org years ago. And it’s online at ampleharvest.org slash study if you want to see it. And their analysis was, if every gardener in America knew that he or she could donate food, surplus food. And if every food pantry in America was on Ample Harvest that were able to receive the food, the nation’s health care costs would drop $58 billion a year.Farmer Fred:[8:20] I always believe that the word pharmacy should be spelled F-A-R-M-A-C-Y because healthy, homegrown, fresh farm food is one of the best ways to get your health back.Gary Oppenheimer:[8:33] Absolutely. And when you think about two of the leading causes of ill health in America are obesity and diabetes, which are both costly in terms of your own well-being and costly in terms of just the medical care involved, those are both diet-impacted diseases. You improve the diet, you reduce those diseases, you have a healthier and, frankly, by extension, a wealthier nation.Farmer Fred:[8:59] One of the categories you have that you’re appealing to is called new gardeners, but there’s a subset of that that we were talking about before the interview called the accidental gardener, and they can also participate with ampleharvest.org.Gary Oppenheimer:[9:13] Yeah, I wrote a blog article about that, the accidental gardener, and people ask, well, what’s an accidental gardener? Either you’re a gardener or you’re not. And I had realized that if you buy a house...Gary Oppenheimer:[9:25] And the house came with a fruit tree that somebody previously planted, apples, oranges, what have you. You may not think of yourself as a gardener if you don’t get your fingers dirty and garden. But the reality is that every year, the tree is raining down on you, all this wonderful food, the apples and the oranges or what have you. And so I describe that person as the accidental gardener. That person, too, has the opportunity to donate the food.Gary Oppenheimer:[9:57] I was named CNN Hero in April 2010. The day I was named CNN Hero, I received an email from somebody in the Southwest who said that the prior year before he’d heard of AmpleHarvest.org, he had thrown away eight 55-gallon drums of citrus fruit because he didn’t know he could donate it. This is a huge opportunity for the country. And the reality is, we haven’t even started tackling that yet. So the $58 billion number was based on the gardeners who know they garden, not the accidental gardeners. So these numbers are going to be subject to change. And I also want to give you one other number subject to change. You started this with saying there are 42 million gardeners in America. That’s pre-COVID. The data we’re now seeing from partners in the industry speaks to 58 millionpeople, and it may well be growing higher as millions more people start their own gardens. And I strongly believe that most of the people who started gardening are going to continue to garden. That means more people gardening and more healthy, fresh food for hungry families on a permanent basis. Look, one thing’s really important. When you grow a garden and have your own garden, you’re growing it for your own enjoyment.Gary Oppenheimer:[11:06] And for your own family. You should be enjoying that food first. The food, however, that you grow that’s in excess of what you can use or preserve or share with friends should never be going to waste. That’s the food that should be donated to a local food pantry. And that’s whether you’re a backyard gardener or maybe you got herbs growing in a kitchen window or in a community garden, it doesn’t really make any difference. And by the way, also the amount of surplus is not terribly important either. Don’t feel bad. I only got five tomatoes to donate. Donate your five tomatoes. It’ll be commingled with all the other people with five tomatoes and 500 pounds of tomatoes at the table. The important thing is that the food is eaten by somebody and nourishes somebody in the community. It’s good for the community.Gary Oppenheimer:[11:50] Frankly, it’s good for the planet because food waste is a contributing factor to climate change. And it’s a wonderful way of people helping their neighbors in need by reaching into their backyards when they can’t afford to reach into their back pocket. Today, we are at work, as you had said, in 50 states, in about 4,200 communities. And today, we’re approaching 9,000 food pantries, which is about a quarter of America’s food pantries, which is great. That means we have three quarters of America’s food pantries yet re-engage and work with and work with those surrounding gardeners. So, we have a lot of work ahead of us and your dollars certainly get us a long way towards succeeding on that.Farmer Fred:[12:28] If you’ve got excess food, you know where to go. Ampleharvest.org will aim you to the food pantry nearest you. Gary Oppenheimer is the founder of Ampleharvest.org. Gary, thanks for a few minutes of your time.Gary Oppenheimer:[12:41] It’s my pleasure. Thank you very, very much.Fred Hoffman is also a University of California Cooperative Extension Master Gardener in Sacramento County. And he’s loved bicycling for a long, long, time. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit gardenbasics.substack.com/subscribe
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